THE HOUSE OF SABYASACHI

This interview was originally published in Platform magazine.

It’s all about seduction. In the public consciousness, nothing about Sabyasachi Mukherjee–the man who serves fantasies through a cavalcade of deftly-structured ensembles that revel in opulence–is understated. Nor are the couturier’s boutiques that come dressed in fine tapestries and sprawling rugs, precious paintings and rare antiques in varying sizes, spotless vitrines encasing jewels and ornate chandeliers suspended from high ceilings. It is a conscious and meticulous arrangement–nothing short of a spectacle. In a world where ‘less is more’, Sabyasachi offers us more and more. The brand is unapologetically maximalist and majestic. As a designer, Mukherjee has an unrivalled reputation for being detail-oriented. From personally spray-painting chandeliers to designing the wallpapers for some of his stores, his intent is to orchestrate bewitching immersive experiences.

It has been more than two decades since Mukherjee introduced his eponymous label. Fashion has radically changed since. Yet, his brand is now more relevant than ever. Considered to have radically transformed the face of wedding couture in India, Mukherjee has risen to becoming one of the country’s most sought-after designers. From perfumes to real estate, jewellery to hospitality, he wants to build an empire and leave behind a legacy. The couturier recently opened his new flagship store in Mumbai, inside the grand structure of a neo classical landmark.

Your boutiques have a personality of their own. They are opulent, regal and exude an old-world charm. What is the story you are trying to narrate through each of your boutiques?

I’ve often said that I see myself as a ferryman between the past and the future. India is such a reservoir of history, art and culture—and I believe that for culture to be relevant it needs to be dynamic. My job is to make it dynamic for today’s consumer. As a designer, I have the privilege to conserve, edit and tweak what I have known into a living legacy. I think when you truly know who you are, the aesthetic just follows.

The sensibility behind all my stores, including my new store in Mumbai comes from the spirit of Calcutta that is so beautifully embodied in the old homes and palaces of the city. It’s where art, culture, craft, heritage and history come together seamlessly but with a distinct point of view. It’s layered together in this almost heady mix. Where legacy meets a certain intellectual sense of modernity, in how hybrid it is. And yet, each is distinct and unique; there’s a certain site specificity to it. Each space and location renders a certain je ne sais quoi that is its own. The Mumbai store is housed within a neoclassical heritage building, which is a landmark in itself. And this spurred my narrative on.

 It’s been more than two decades since your label was established. Looking back, what significant, daresay risk-worthy decisions did you take that propelled the stratastrophic rise of brand Sabyasachi?

I’ve always believed that for any brand to survive and thrive, it needs to understand the fundamentals and retain its authenticity over the years. From the beginning, I knew that my brand and aesthetic is rooted in heritage and culture and I’m almost vehemently anti-trend. I think that’s been my riskiest but safest bet.

An extremely hands-on individual, for you it’s not just about the garment or the product, but creating a sensorial experience when it comes to presentation. What is your process behind imagining and creating hyper-luxurious moments?

I work produce backwards, a bit like a farm to table chef—so, it all depends on the harvest at the local market. Those ingredients for me are craft, technique, storytelling, heritage, history and culture. So, it’s not a linear or unidimensional process, it’s more organic. I don’t like to fix the destination—I like to discover it and enjoy the proverbial journey. I am a tactile thinker, so I like to feel my material and see how they can come together. Design is almost a visceral and spontaneous reaction.

In any profession, there are bound to be failures before one soars. One cannot help but wonder what disappointments or let-downs you may have experienced that went on to become a pivotal turning point in your life – a springboard that helped you transform your label into the behemoth it is today.

 I don’t know if I can call it a let-down or disappointment but I had my learning curve on this when I showed at New York Fashion Week, back in 2006. Something about it didn’t sit right with me and I remember [fashion journalist] Suzy Menkes pointing out to me, the massive potential and opportunity within India itself. That got me thinking and I realised that before you’re ready to explore a global market, you need to know, grow and win on your own turf. The risk of going global or even expanding at a pace that you’re not ready for, is that you don’t get to create a strong foundation for your brand. That is where all the risks lie. You need to be confident, authentic and sure about who you and your brand are. The rest just happens.

In one of our earlier articles, your long-time friend Meeta Ghose said that you were a ‘whiz kid in Mathematics’ and that your grandmother was disappointed when she learned that you wanted to ‘become a tailor’. How challenging was it for you to remain glued to your path that was so different from what most Indian children were doing back in the day?

I’m from an Indian middle class family, so of course, design and fashion were alien ideas at the time. But it’s also my roots that have kept me grounded and given me my understanding of luxury and design.

What can we expect from the new Sabyasachi boutique and what can we look forward to in the future?

I don’t think I can describe the boutique. I think it has to be experienced. For those who know the Sabyasachi experience, this is the epitome and culmination of it all. Also, there are a few exciting global collaborations coming up, which I can’t disclose just yet. Right now, it’s all about the new Mumbai store.